Frequently Asked Questions

The boiler might have locked out due to no gas or low pressure but most now will give a fault code to tell you about the cause of the lockout. Leaking, low pressure, no heating or hot water, boiler not responding to the thermostat, frozen pipes.

The first thing to check when boiler troubleshooting is to check the thermostat setting. Then check the fuse box or circuit panel for a blown fuse or tripped breaker.

If the boiler uses a standing pilot light, check to make sure it’s on. If using an RF thermostat to change the batteries, several makes of programmable thermostats only show a battery symbol when the batteries need changing and this is confused as a sign that the batteries are good. If you do change the batteries make sure that the replacements are put back the correct way round. Make sure the boiler is turned on and the dial that tells it how much heat to produce is not turned down or the boiler is on summer mode. Make sure that the gas has not been accidentally turned off at the ECV or if it’s a pre-paid meter that the credit has not run out.

There can be a whole range of reasons why a boiler stops working – please see common problems of boilers answers and look at our troubleshooting checks video on our homepage.

If your boiler seems to be functioning but the radiators are cold, then the likely cause could be a faulty boiler pump or your central heating controls. Make sure you check that the thermostat or timer is working correctly. Depending on the type of boiler this could be due to an issue with the pump or the zone or mid position valve if a conventional system or it could be that the flow temperature has been turned down on the boiler or summer mode selected if it’s a combi. Sometimes with combi’s, if hot water pre-heat has been selected but the boiler is in summer mode it appears that the boiler is firing but this is due to pre-heat and not the heating.

More often than not a lack of hot water is a thermostat issue, but it could also be a problem with your water or power supply, boiler settings, timer, or an issue with boiler pressure, a potential airlock, or frozen pipes. Depending on the type of boiler. If a conventional system with a hot water cylinder, it could be that the programmer is not calling for the cylinder to be heated, or it could be an issue with the zone valves or cylinder thermostat, or programmer. If it’s a pressurised system it could be a pressure issue, but most boilers will display a fault code or at least flashlights at you. If it’s a combi it could be that there is a fault with the boiler. People need to check all taps before thinking there is a problem with the boiler. It is quite common for people to say “ my shower is going hot and cold or the temperature won’t adjust” but their taps are all working so it’s a problem with the shower, not the boiler. Also, the combi boiler will stop producing hot water at low flow rates, normally about 0.5 ltrs per minute, below that the boiler sees the flow as a dripping tap

There are three main types of boiler combi, heat-only, and system. Heat only boiler can work with unvented and a system boiler can work with the vented cylinder. The difference is that a system boiler has the pump built into the boiler and a heat-only or regular boiler doesn’t, Combi boilers do indeed produce the hot water as well.

A broken internal component, such as a pressure sensor known as an F75 fault. valve. Loss of pressure, thermostat issues, and leaks are also the main causes of problems as well as flow sensors – if this fails the boiler stops producing hot water. System debris that has blocked the heat exchangers or caused component failure can also be the issue.

• Get your boiler serviced every single year and make sure it’s covered with a care plan.
• Switch your boiler back on a few times over the summer to run the heating for a short time to prevent parts from seizing up.
• Prevent frozen pipes in winter by insulating your pipes and setting your thermostat so that your heating stays on low whilst you are out, or so that it switches on occasionally can help.
• Bleed your radiators to release pressure.
• Arrange a power flush to clean the system through a certified heating engineer.
• Installation of a primary filter if one is not fitted.

Boiler pressure should generally be between 1 and 1.5 bars when central heating is turned off. The needle of the pressure gauge should always remain above the lower limit set by your boiler manufacturer. It is important that if the pressure is topped up that the filling loop is fully closed, leaving the filling loop open can cause damage to the boiler.

Many heating engineers are competent to wire the boiler back into the existing fused switched spur and to wire in the controls to the boiler, only if changes to the electrical circuit are needed would an electrician be needed.) Although a gas boiler is an electrical device, it is not normally referred to as an Electric boiler mainly because there are boilers that are only electric and have no gas. Therefore, boilers that use gas are referred to as gas boilers

The short answer is, No.

Whilst you can do some of the donkey work yourself such as installing the water pipes and radiators for a heating system, working on the gas boiler itself, and the final connection of the water pipework to the boiler must be done by a Gas Safe registered engineer. If you refer to all pipework associated with wet central heating systems as heating pipework it distinguishes between the pipework for the heating system and the potable water piping.

With a qualified heating engineer sourced, they can have your old boiler out and a new one installed and operational in less than a day.

The main difference between a plumber and a heating engineer is that a plumber does not carry any gas safe qualifications. Gas qualifications to work on a boiler normally referred to as ACS must be in place and the company registered with Gas safe. The gas qualifications alone do not allow someone to legally work on gas or gas appliances, must be done by a gas-safe registered engineer.

Boilers typically last 10-15 years, but this can vary depending on the quality and how well they are maintained. 

Look for signs like frequent breakdowns, high repair costs, or reduced efficiency. 

Regular servicing by a Gas Safe registered engineer ensures your boiler is safe, efficient, and compliant with warranty conditions.

Annual servicing is recommended to maintain safety and efficiency. Contact Aura Retrofit to discuss which of our Boiler Care Plans would be best suited to you.

ASHPs extract heat from the outside air, compress it, and transfer it into your home to provide heating and hot water. They can operate efficiently even in low temperatures.

By using ambient air to generate heat, ASHPs reduce reliance on fossil fuels, lowering your home’s carbon footprint.

Yes, ASHPs are highly efficient and can significantly lower your energy bills compared to some traditional heating systems.

ASHPs are versatile and can be installed in most homes. However, properties with good insulation can maximise their efficiency.

ASHPs require minimal maintenance, with routine checks ensuring optimal performance.

Modern ASHPs are designed to operate quietly, with noise levels comparable to a refrigerator.

Some ASHP models can reverse their operation to provide cooling during warmer months.

With proper maintenance, an ASHP can last up to 20 years, offering a long-term heating solution.

Installation typically involves mounting the unit outside your home and either connecting it to your existing heating system, or installing new pipework and radiators. A professional installer can complete the process with minimal disruption.

ASHPs offer long-term savings on energy bills, increase home efficiency, and add value to your property, making them a worthwhile investment.

Solar panels contain photovoltaic cells that convert sunlight into direct current (DC) electricity. An inverter then transforms this DC electricity into alternating current (AC), which powers your household appliances.

Solar PV systems generate clean, renewable energy, reducing reliance on fossil fuels and decreasing your home’s carbon footprint.

Yes, by generating your own electricity, you can lower your energy bills and become less dependent on energy suppliers.

Homes with south-facing roofs receive the most sunlight, but east or west-facing roofs can also be effective. Adequate roof space and minimal shading are important factors to consider.

Solar panels have no moving parts and require minimal maintenance. Regular cleaning and periodic professional inspections ensure optimal performance.

Solar panels are durable and typically have a lifespan of 25 to 30 years, continuing to generate electricity efficiently throughout this period.

Solar panels still generate electricity on cloudy days, though at a reduced rate. They are most effective in direct sunlight but can utilise diffuse sunlight as well.

Yes, by integrating a battery storage system, you can store surplus energy generated during the day for use during evenings or periods of low sunlight.

Homes with solar PV systems can be more attractive to buyers, potentially increasing property value due to the promise of reduced energy costs.

A professional installer will assess your property, design a suitable system, and handle the installation, which usually takes one to two days with minimal disruption.

It’s a system that stores excess electricity generated by your solar panels for later use, allowing you to utilise solar energy even when the sun isn’t shining.

By storing surplus energy, you can use it during peak hours when electricity rates are higher, thus lowering your overall energy costs.

Yes, a solar battery can supply electricity during power cuts, ensuring essential appliances remain operational.

Absolutely, storing your own solar energy reduces reliance on the grid, offering greater control over your energy usage.

Yes, maximising the use of renewable energy decreases your carbon footprint and promotes sustainability.

Costs vary based on battery capacity, type, and installation specifics. While the initial investment can be significant, the long-term savings and benefits often outweigh the costs.

Typically, solar batteries have a lifespan ranging from 5 to 15 years, depending on the type and usage patterns.

Yes, many existing solar setups can be retrofitted with battery storage solutions. Consulting with a professional installer can provide guidance tailored to your system.

Homes equipped with solar energy systems and battery storage are often more attractive to buyers, potentially enhancing property value.

Solar batteries generally require minimal maintenance, with periodic checks ensuring optimal performance.

Loft insulation involves adding a layer of insulating material to your attic or loft space, reducing heat loss through the roof and maintaining a consistent indoor temperature.

Cavity wall insulation fills the gap between the inner and outer masonry walls of a property with insulating material, preventing heat from escaping and keeping your home warmer.

Loft insulation can save up to £590 annually, while cavity wall insulation can save between £180 and £690 per year, depending on your home.

Most homes can benefit from loft insulation, especially if the existing insulation is below the recommended 270mm depth. Cavity wall insulation is suitable for properties with unfilled cavity walls, typically built between 1920 and 1990.

Common materials include mineral wool, glass wool, and sheep’s wool for loft insulation, and insulating foam or beads for cavity walls. These materials are chosen for their thermal efficiency and durability.

Loft insulation can typically be installed in a few hours, while cavity wall insulation may take half a day, depending on property size.

Yes, both loft and cavity wall insulation can help reduce external noise, creating a quieter indoor environment.

When installed correctly by professionals, both types of insulation are safe and can improve indoor air quality by reducing drafts and dampness.

Both loft and cavity wall insulation are durable solutions, often lasting over 40 years without significant degradation.

Yes, insulation helps maintain a consistent indoor temperature, keeping your home cooler in summer by reducing heat ingress.

Extractor fans are mechanical devices installed in areas like kitchens and bathrooms to remove stale air, moisture, and odours. They help prevent condensation and mould growth by expelling humid air outside, thereby maintaining optimal indoor air quality.

Door undercuts involve trimming the bottom of interior doors to create a small gap. This gap allows air to flow freely between rooms, promoting better circulation and aiding in the efficient operation of ventilation systems.

Window trickle vents are small openings integrated into window frames that allow a constant, controlled flow of fresh air into the home. They help reduce condensation and improve air quality without the need to open windows fully.

Yes, by facilitating continuous airflow and removing excess moisture, extractor fans, door undercuts, and trickle vents work together to minimise condensation on windows and walls, preventing potential dampness and mould issues.

Proper ventilation helps maintain consistent indoor temperatures, reducing the need for excessive heating. By preventing dampness, it also protects the building structure, potentially lowering maintenance costs.

Modern extractor fans are designed to operate quietly. Door undercuts and trickle vents allow passive airflow without any noise, ensuring a peaceful home environment.

Extractor fans may require occasional cleaning to ensure optimal performance. Trickle vents and door undercuts are passive systems and generally need minimal to no maintenance.

Yes, extractor fans, door undercuts, and trickle vents can be retrofitted into existing properties with minimal disruption, enhancing ventilation without major renovations.

By reducing indoor pollutants, allergens, and moisture levels, these ventilation solutions help prevent respiratory issues and create a more comfortable living space.

Trickle vents are discreetly integrated into window frames, and door undercuts are subtle modifications, both having minimal impact on the home’s appearance. Modern extractor fans come in various designs to complement interior aesthetics.